"What a long strange trip it's been..."

Well, we are finally back in Arizona! We celebrated our return with a week of excitement in Michigan (the weather was gorgeous). We went to the MSU-ND game which was gggrrrreat (we won! whoop whoop), Claire and Brent's wedding (she's officially a Pheiffer), perch fishing on Lake Michigan ( I caught a 13incher) and the best part: we spent time with the family (Hazel is walking!). It just always feels a little too short when we drive away. The air smelled like concord grapes, the trees are beginning to change their colors, the grass was green and the sky was blue. I hate saying goodbye.
But I have to say it was good to come back to US. We (I) have been reading every trash mag I can get my hands on to catch up on the "news." I think I was gone too long. Britney's skinny, Project Runway is half over, is there a Hollywood actress left that hasn't had a baby or is knocked up???, MSU is the best college football team in the state of MI (take that Nick Saban!), the McRib is back, and am I the only person in this country who has never seen an episode of Gossip Girl???? Yes it seems so much has changed in one short summer. I forgot our TV has so many channels (in English!), or that Fry's is the greatest grocery store in the world (trust me), or what highways look like (I was afraid to drive a car). Ahhhh. home sweet home. It's been awhile.

nICELAND

Well I knew it would be a bit cold here but I didn't expect the hurricane winds. The landscape is harsh: lava fields, rugged mountains, volcanoes, and a definite lack of trees. They have a couple jokes here we found hilarious if only because they are so true: 1. What do you do if you get lost in the woods in Iceland? Ans: Stand up. 2. What's a sunny day in Iceland? Ans: A day its not raining. But the cold winds and jagged rocks lend Iceland its unexpected beauty. There are waterfalls and rainbows galore. Moss grows on the black rocks. Geysers burst with warmth. Sheep wander freely. And then there are the geothermal hot spots.
The blue lagoon near the airport is one of the most famous hot springs. The water is a murky turquoise and it stays a steady 104F year round. We enjoyed the mineral masks and lazing around there for a day. Definitely one of the most relaxing experiences on this trip. This is one of the only places we have been that we just slowed down to a near stop. Staying at a fabulous B&B and drinking tea with the owners, making soups for dinner, and snuggling in the evening listening to the wind and rain. It has been a wonderful time and place to relax and reflect on the incredible journey we have made the last few months. While a vacation to Iceland is probably not everyones ideal relaxation spot, it was the perfect finish to a wonderful world tour.

Sparty Gets Around

Just a little snippet of Sparty's Summer Vacation.

Paddington Bear's Cozy City

How did we get so lucky?
First, we were the last Eurostar train to make it through the chunnel before it caught fire and was shut down for 2 days.
Second, it was sunny every single day here.
The sunshine was a saver because, really, the rain is getting a bit….wet. We stayed right on Hyde park. Which was great, because I got to go to sleep and wake up staring at lovely gardens. Very nice. It was also a short walk to Kensington Palace (Diana’s apartments) and some really great shopping (which I did not partake in- Thanks to the pound/dollar ratio). This city is expensive for us Americans. You can pretty much double everything. It also ensured Jeff a quiet 30th birthday with a nice dinner, in which he ate (quite possibly) the best chocolate cake and custard ever made. And of course, fish and chips. I found the “chips” a bit too big for my shoestring tastes, so I preferred the dinner of Pasty (a traditional Cornwall dish). And whilst we are on food, Jeff introduced me to the candy version of crack. It’s called a Fruit Pastille. And yes I brought some for you to try. These things should be illegal. Seriously. That. Good. Okay I could go on and on about the culinary delights here but…
I love the double decker shiny buses, crazy little brits in their tweed and short short skirts, Paddington Bears on everything, a city that still loves Palaces, has a Queen (and cute princes!), lady on the money, wellies, Tower bridge, phone booths, sweet old school taxis and of course, what kind of city in Europe would it be without a big clock! I do like London, I was just a little burned out and poor to afford the city. Which was a real shame as it looked fun. But who can keep up with $10 beers. We had one. One. On Jeff’s Bday which makes for a seriously sad 30th indeed. So all of you reading this should know Jeff really needs a beer. So put on your celebration hats on we are off to Iceland for one last hoorah before heading it home to Detroit rock city and the good old USA. See you all soon! Go Spartans!

If Rome is From Mars, Paris is From Venus

Paris. A place I have wanted to go to for as long as I can remember. The city of Lights. But that doesn’t begin to do it justice. Paris is more like a lady: feminine, grand, charming, elegant, artistic. From her decadent outskirts, Versailles. To her heart, the masterpiece that is the Eiffel tower. This is why people come here. Don’t believe the anti-hype for a second. Paris will exceed your expectations at every turn.
My first view of the Eiffel tower was as were walking to the train for Versailles. I was crossing the Seine and then…..Whoa. There it was. Breathtaking. It was early in the morning on a Saturday and we had the view to ourselves. It is a moment I will never forget. But let’s get back to Versailles, shall we? We arrived early and managed to miss the queues. To say they lived extravagantly here is an understatement. You have never seen such grandeur. It makes the Hermitage in Russia look like a cozy little apartment. But the palace is just the beginning because once you see the gardens any expectation you did have is pretty much blown out of the water. Fountains, gardens, flowers, castles, fountains, statues, flowers, gardens, mazes, fountains….There is a lot to see here. Our sore feet were proof.
Unfortunately they didn’t get much of a break the following day as we hit up the only free day of the month at the Louvre. Surprisingly, not very busy. There was of course the crowd to see Ms. Lisa. Which was the only thing I felt was slightly overrated in the city of Paris. We split up a day later to see other museums as well. I went to the Musee D’Orsay (art) and Jeff to the Hotel Invalides (military). So we both came home happy that day. Together we went to the Rodin (sculpture) and L’Orangerie (art-really big Monets). Both were fantastic and even though much of our time here was fuelled by running around like mad trying to see so much it was amazing and all ready look forward to coming back.
Our gracious and incredible local host, Bruno, probably all ready has the plans to Normandy worked out. We were so lucky to stay with such a wonderful and knowledgeable person. While our days were filled with rushing about our evenings were spent on our new friend’s patio drinking wine and eating long dinners we took turns preparing. Bruno also gave us a special trip to the center of Paris at night, out to VanGogh’s home town (and grave) and an evening sojourn to Montmarte. I’m still not sure which I like best. But with any luck we will back to see Bruno again.

Chiming bells of Vernazza

I sit here in my plush little room listening to accordion music and Italian voices floating in through the window. I have to pinch myself to remind me this is not a dream. Nor was the lunch of incredible Pesto pizza from a wood oven, or the wonderful house wines. I am in Vernazza, in the heart of Cinque Terra and the Italian Rivera. To say I love being here is an understatement. I have seen pictures of this place everywhere from the cover of Travel and Leisure to posters in travel shops around the world. With a population of only 600 people, it is quaint and tiny nestled among the vineyards that scale the mountains nudging right up to the Mediterranean. There is not much to do around here, which is a fantastic break from sightseeing. We decided to take the brutal hike to Monterosso (the next town over) one morning to sit on the beach. Five minutes after arriving it rains. We weather the storm in a rock enclave and after a half hour have the beach to ourselves. We have the best dinner of our lives at a restaurant that evening that juts out into the ocean. I am living a dream. I try to soak in every second here. Emblazing all the colors of the ocean and the scents of the beautiful food into my mind. There is no place like this in all the world. No museums or landmarks to see. The best shows here are free: watching the joy and relief on Jeff’s face as he plunged into the water at the end of the pier was priceless. Around dinner time, all the old men line up their chairs along the walkway and in the central piazza watching the girls go by. Under the shade of umbrellas in the afternoon they play cards, I can hear them laughing from our balcony above. This is a place that will quiet even the most restless of souls. As we leave the train station this morning I hear the clock tower ring its bells right on time, and hope that one day they will call me back again.

Venice and Roma isn't just a variety of tomato

Well Venice was nice I must say. We stayed on the mainland in Fusina at a campground just across from the floating city. It proved to be nice choice, we had our very own little camper and there was always something going on. Even better was that Venice was only a short boat ride away. Our time was short here, but you don’t really need a lot of time to see the city, just a lot of money. A famous gondola ride will set you back a cool $120 for about 15 minutes. What a racket. Skipped on that! Dinner? A nice $100 for 2 is the going rate even on the sidestreets. We wandered about most of the day more or less because we kept getting lost. The streets are smaller than an arm span. But it was nice not having to dodge cars and bicycles, just the occasional lost tourist like ourselves. We did find out that the city was all abuzz with the upcoming Venice Film Festival. Glad we missed that (I’m sure prices climb even higher then!). All in all it was worth seeing just not worth spending on a trip like this. Oh, and bring bug spray.But Roma I love love LOVE! They say if you throw one coin in the Trevi fountain you will in love with Rome. Two, and you will come back soon. I threw one on our first day, and I fell in love. What an amazing city all around. Wonderful cheap transportation, free fresh water everywhere, gelato on every corner, and of course the coliseum. Our hostel was at capacity but it provided breakfast and dinner assuring us we would not starve to death. Jeff truly shined here. With all his Roman history knowledge, he was an excellent tour guide. Albeit a bit pushy: we did spend some 15+ hours our second day on foot seeing the city. But if you’re going to have a history lesson you mind as well do it in person. By our last day I was overdone. Rome still feels like a whirlwind in my memory. Everything is so much better than I could imagine. The coliseum at night will leave you in wonder. Trevi fountain will inspire you. The Spanish steps will weaken you. The Vatican, even as a protestant like me, will bring you to your knees. Everything here is so bella and more than a bit otherworldly and mysterious. Sitting in front of the Pantheon I ponder how they built the dome (architects still don’t know how they did it) over a bowl of out of this world banana gelato. In the end, I can only admire its beauty. Tyson, I thought of how much you would love and appreciate this city. I wish you were here. Sparty feels right at home amid the soaring columns and massive marble buildings. Sometimes, it all feels overwhelming. I feel small in face of such Roman greatness. I leave with the hope that Jeff’s one coin and my own one coin in the Trevi fountain will mean we both return again soon.

Bonjour Daisie

Dear Daisie,
I wanted to write to you from our trip around the world and tell you that your Mom and Dad miss you. We think of you often and we saw a number of boxers in Germany & Salzburg that I’m sure you would have loved to meet. (They were all boys) By the way this is your Dad writing so I also expect you to behave while you’re at G-Pa Tim’s and G-Ma Katie’s. I will get a full report upon my return to the US. We will be home in just over two weeks so try not to get to excited. The best part is you get to travel in the rental car but I’ll call it the truck upon which you get to enjoy a ~30hr drive. I know you will just love it. I also wanted to inform you that I have sources and they tell me you have been eating a little too well. This means when you get back to the desert it is back to green peppers and “light” meals. Can’t have you running around the neighborhood looking like a fat little dog! I say this with an added benefit. This means more walks around the block as well since Mom/Dad want to keep off all the weight we lost on this trip and since you’re part of the family it’s time to get in line. Anyway the point of this mail is to say we have not abandoned you and much to G-Pa Tim’s dismay you have to come home with us. I’m sure you will enjoy taking up my space on the bed as usual. Not to mention jumping the fence and trying to eat up my garden. We miss you and see you soon.

Love Mom & Dad

Salzburg in the Summertime ("These are a few of my favorite things")

I’m not sure what I like more about Salzburg, being here or getting to and from here. Seriously, the scenery here is out of this world. One glance at the mountains and valleys and you’ll be singing, “…the hills are alive with the sound of music…” Okay, I know it’s a bit cheesy running around singing the entire soundtrack to the Sound of Music, but I still did it. What are you going to do with a girl like Maria??? The Austrians look at you like you’re crazy, most have never even heard of the movie. They are very proud of another musician though. That would be Mozart. He’s no Julie Andrews but Salzburg just can’t get enough of him. There are cafes, chocolates, ice creams and all sorts of things named after him here. I even saw Mozart Milch. So off we were to visit Mozart’s birthplace. After kissing many Euros goodbye to see his little childhood piano (do you think he knew Doe Rei Me?) we pretty much had our fill of Mozart. I personally found it more enjoyable to sit in the square and listen to a quartet playing Mozart. We decided to save some doe J and walk it up to the big castle on the hill. It looks closer than it actually was, it was Fa (a long long way to walk). The top of castle had absolutely stunning views of the city. The castle itself was very well preserved and very medieval. There was a lot of WWI memorabilia inside, which was interesting since it was really the first we saw of it. Another museum ran through the entire history of the place. It’s old. After such a busy morning we decided to pick up a few things and have a picnic by the river. It was so nice and relaxing. It made me feel like singing….I am 16 going on 17….Poor Jeff. After that it was off to the Augustiner Brewery. It was a fabulous recommendation from our friends in Oregon. It was a perfect finish to a busy day…if only I had a cup of te (a drink with jam and bread).

Munchen Land

Tucked away among the pines in Bavaria is a magical place called Munich. It could easily be called the beer capital of the world. The beer gardens far outnumber the designer stores and there are no pints in this town. Beer is typically served in a generous 1 liter mug. Drinking here will definitely give you an arm workout (those mugs are heavy on empty!). A must on your “bierhaus” crawl is a stop at the infamous Hofbrahaus. Now, I know there are copies….but the one in Vegas is truly sad compared to the original. First, it’s massive. Second, it’s packed. But its all well worth the effort, just make sure you know your way home. Luckily for Jeff, I did. But getting to know Munich solely through beer, while fun, is a bit like only drinking the foam on top. The best part about Munich, in my opinion, is the rich weisen underneath. Munich is just seeping with history.
This is, after all, the birthplace of the National Socialist (Nazi) movement. It’s also the place where Hitler was almost killed. It was the city where the first Jewish and Polish people were sent to concentration camps. Dachu, the very first concentration camp, lies in the shadow of Munich. I could go on and on. The city is filled with humble reminders of its past. There is no memorial as big as the one in Berlin. Here, they are scattered about and mostly in German. One of my favorites is the Gold Line. Among the bricks in an alley behind Ostenplatz runs a gold line. During the 1930’s the government put a plaque memorial on the main street to honor Nazi’s who died during the pusch. As a law, everyone had to salute the memorial each time they passed it. Those opposed to Nazism simply refused to walk by it. Instead, they used the small alley so they would not have to salute the Nazi party. Eventually the government caught on and monitored who was using the alley and with what frequency. These people were sent to Dachu. Ironically, on the building the plaques were on are two lions (they were there in the 1930’s too). One with its head towards the church mouth closed, the other with its head towards the royal palace mouth open. It was to remind people to never question God, but to always speak up when it comes to their government.
Besides the sad reminders are lots of other amazing things to see in Munich. There was the glockenspiel. A clock almost as overrated as Prague’s astronomical clock. It’s a must see! If I never see another singing ringing animated clock again I will be happy. Then there is Julia (a statue), bring her some flowers and your love life will get better. The Residenz English gardens are beautiful…I wonder what their landscaping bill is. But really people you came here for a beer. Prost!

Time for a Time Out

Feeling exhausted and burned out from all the travel, we made it to our safe haven, House of Bugbee. I had looked forward to this for almost 2 weeks and it did not disappoint! Mike was Jeff’s fraternity brother back at MSU. He and his wife, Emilie, and their 2 adorable kids (and another one on the way) have been living just outside Frankfurt for the past year. They were kind enough to take our smelly, worn out selves in. And thank goodness! I was nearly at my wits end, practically having breakdowns every time I had to pack the bag again. I can’t say enough about their lovely family. Emilie was kind enough to make us the first home cooked meal we have had in months and help us with our laundry (desperately needed). Mike took us out to the Rhine Valley sightseeing one day, which was the best part of Germany thus far. We went on a half day tour of a local town, Wiesbaden. And the rest of the time we just lounged, lazed and played. It was pure bliss and brought us back to life.
I’m not sure what Wiesbaden is famous for…money, beauty, the little train that works on water and a pulley? It had all of them. The houses here are like something out of a movie set and the stores are filled with Prada, Gucci, and D&G. I saw a pretty red jacket that I would have sold everything in my backpack for. It was ridiculously expensive, something like 2300 euros, ouch! Guess I’ll have to settle for the coffee mug souvenir instead. The town was charming to say the least. We had a picnic in a park, with chips and whatever they call salsa (it tastes like tomato paste and sweet and sour sauce).
Even better than Wiesbaden is the Rhine Valley, which is famous for the Rhine River and Wine. More specifically, Riesling. The valley’s rolling hills are accentuated by the castles that are perched along the river, watching over the vineyards and quaint houses. This is Germany! Our lunch even had entertainment courtesy of a little polka band complete with a tuba. Ok, it’s a bit touristy but I could care less. Throw on a fanny pack and tie a camera around my neck, here I come!
That was pretty much the extent of sightseeing here, but no complaints from me. My favorite parts of the last few days have been reading kids books and doing dishes. So thanks again to Mike, Emilie, Ben, Katie and Unborn Baby Bugbee for everything. Who knows, you might see us again next year. Oktoberfest, anyone?

Amsterdam in the Moonlight

Even the flag here is XXX, literally. It's written on the flag. But what would you expect from a city where prostitution and marajuana is legal? I actually found it much tamer than it's reputation lets on. However, I did find out that the coffee shops specialize in more things than espresso. If you're wondering...no I did not partake in anything thats illegal in the States. What a prudy I am! I did have a few Heinekens and Amstels tho. Watch out! In any case there is more to this "city of sin" than just red lights and hookas. For starters there are the bicycles. At first, its quaint. Then, it's annoying. There must be twice the amount of bicycles as people in this city. And they don't stop for pedestrians (even when you have the green walk light). I had flashbacks of my run in with the mystery spandex clad cyclist (the one that broke my foot). They are all equipped with annoying little bells that they ring at you if you come one cenimeter over the tiny sidewalk into "their area". I felt like clothes-lining half of them. Besides the bicycles there is also the very popular Van Gogh Museum. As a Van Gogh lover, I was in heaven. Jeff, was bored and tired of walking. We both loved the Anne Frank House. It's a very moving tribute to the holocaust that puts a face to the tragedy. Unfortunately it was rainy rainy rainy the entire time here. Thus, you could pretty much count out a boat ride or any serious walking. I enjoyed simply checking out the architecture. It never failed to surprise. All the buildings were a bit...off kilter. Maybe they were smoking something....
The nightlife even without all the "extras" was still fun. We happened to be sharing our room with two very fun loving Irish girls, Annie and Jenny, that we went out with a couple nights. I think they throughlly out drank both of us. *Note to self, never challenge a Irish to a drinking contest.* It was good times, Jeff and I finally got to go dancing again. SO NICE. Also in our room was a Russian/Finnish dude named Johan. He was definitely interesting. I don't know if he's on Russia's or Georgia's side, but he loves Putin. Like I said, interesting to talk to.
I'm not sure if Amsterdam is a city I'd come back to or not. I'm still on the fence. But I can confidently say there is no other city quite like it.

A Brief History of Berlin

Going to Berlin is like taking a history lesson, but obviously much cooler. Being in a city that was nearly leveled in 1945 is a bit surreal. I mean, their government is younger than I am. This is where WWII started, and, for Europe, ended. Just trying to grasp that will take you all the time you have here. Then there is “The Wall.” That would require another week. We stayed in East Berlin, and after visiting the West side, I realize this is very much a city still divided. They call it “the wall in the head.” If going to Moscow is an education in communism, going to Berlin shows you how it was executed (iron curtain). But all of this history is shrouded in the modernism of a new city. The buildings are edgy and forward. Even their history museums manage to incorporate cutting edge art into their exhibitions. But all I kept wondering is Berlin a city stuck in the past because of its misdeeds or a city on the forefront of society?
Maybe Neither. Maybe it was my own conceptions of what happened here that kept me so attached to the past. Maybe it is my love of modern art that attracts me to the future of Berlin. I don’t know. When you look at the 1936 Olympic Stadium do you see swastikas and armies of Germans marching instep? Or do you see a modern stadium that recently held the World Cup full fans cheering excitedly for their teams? Maybe they are both. Berlin is a city that must accept their past in order to have a future. Where it seems the previous generations tried to forget the newer generations seems bent on remembering not to forget. When the government halted work on the museum, Topography of Terror, it was the youth here that protested to have it finished (it was reinstated and they are currently working on it). There are many examples of this, none more visible then the Memorial to the Murdered Jews, which lies in central Berlin as a reminder of what began in this city. When walking, if you look down, the double row of bricks that zig-zag through the city mark where the Berlin Wall once stood. Here, you don’t have to seek the history out, it finds you.
There are many stories I heard while I was here, of families and lovers being separated by the wall, of wild escape stories, secret bunkers, and tragic opposition to government. And I hope I get to tell many of them to you one day. But when I think of my experience here, and all this city has seen, I am reminded of a speech given on the top of the stairs at the Reichstag during a rally in 1954 West Berlin as a plea “People of the world, look at this city!”

Czeching out Prague!

Pretty Prague: Land of castles, old bridges, gothic churches, Kafka and the famous astrological clock. We happened to be staying right around the corner from another landmark, the “Dancing Building,” designed my Frank Gehry (he also designed some fancy jewelry for Tiffany & Co). But maybe even better than that was the little Czech restaurant across the street from our hostel. The tall Pilsner’s only ran us $2 a piece. Plus the food was great (I highly recommend the potato pancakes with bleu cheese).
Our first day, we hit up Prague castle which sits stately up a hill watching over the city. It’s a long walk but well worth the view. To get there you cross over the landmark St Charles Bridge. On it, statues line the whole thing. But one in particular is special because it signifies the spot where a watch-guard was thrown to his death for not revealing the extramarital affairs of the Queen, racy thing that she was. Once inside Prague Castle you walk through the cathedrals, museums, down golden lane, and to the former torture tower. After I got us thoroughly lost on the way down we walked back up to check out the “must see” singing fountain. Well, it doesn’t sing. And it’s itty-bitty. So, maybe not so must see in my book, especially since it meant climbing the 300 some stairs back up to the gardens. Jeff will never let me live that one down. Now, as far as the other “must see” in every travel book is the Old Town Hall Astrological Clock. Supposedly, the town officials loved it so much that they thanked the artist by cutting out his eyes so that he could never make something more beautiful in another town. Lovely little story, huh? So there we are at noon, with the other throngs of tourists, pushing and shoving to see this clock work its magic. It rings, doors slide open, apostles slide past, and then….nothing. Jeff looked up and said, “Seriously?” Now, I know I’m making Prague sound a little overrated, but I assure it is not. One of the best possible things to do here is just take a walk. Most historians agree that Prague is architecturally one of the best preserved towns in Europe. It also has a thriving art community and rich recent history. Among other things, it boasts the oldest synagogue and Jewish cemetery in Europe. Josef, the Jewish sector, has an excellent little church, Pinkas. In which, 80,000 Czech Jewish holocaust victim’s names are written out with their days of birth and death. Very moving. Prague is so rich culturally; you could skip all the “must sees” and still have a very full and memorable agenda. I would definitely go back again, especially with a couple of neighbors.

High Maintence Mo

Okay, so I've always thought of myself as pretty low maintence (maybe medium maintence). But I think I've just jumped up a notch. Because, really people, if hair conditioner, face wash, shaving ones legs, traveling by plane (and not hot sweaty trains), 2 ply toliet paper, feather pillows, clean bathrooms, clean clothes (!), pedicures, a suitcase, perfume, and a room of ones own is high maintence then sign me up for the Paris Hilton tour (but keep the panties on). I miss Walgreens because they sell nearly everything one needs from cough medicine to cheetos. I long for unflavored potato chips. There is truly something disturbing about seafood flavored chips. And get the shrimp off my pizza while your at it! I also want you to know that half my clothes currently smell a bit like menthol because of all the massages in Thailand. No matter how many times I wash my clothes in the sink (I miss washers/dryers like no one's business!), there is still that smell! I want to chuck everything from my backpack because it's getting heavier by the day and I still have a month+ to go. I always fancied myself drinking Champagne (ahhh you sweet nectar, how I miss you!) in Paris, but with the Euro I might have to settle for sparkling water. So there you have it! I have become (or maybe always have been) a high maintence woman!
But no worries everyone I won't be ditching any of you for Paris, Britney or Lindsay.

A Letter to Poland

Dear Poland,
I want to thank you for all your hospitality on our recent visit. Your people were more than welcoming and your country is so picturesque and beautiful. I am sad to say that we only had the opportunity to visit the Krakow (Cracovia) area. I found the city pleasantly surprising. Wawel castle and all its legends were spectacular and very medieval. Old town was quaint and charming. It was refreshing to see local farmers markets set up on nearly every 5th block. The nearly constant presence of the nuns and priests from the over 50 monasteries in the city gave it a holy and tranquil feeling. I didn't know that Pope John Paul II was a cardinal here! Your univeristy is also to be admired, it did train Copernicus after all, and is the 3rd oldest institution in Europe. To say the least, I was rather impressed.
We also did some historical sojourns. The old Jewish ghetto was a sad reminder of Krakow's horrific losses. With the Jewish population here now only in the hundreds its hard to think that nearly one in every five people in Krakow and one in every three in Warsaw used to be Jewish. We walked through the alley along what remained of the original wall to Oskar Schindler's old factory. Having watched the movie, it was especially moving to see the place itself. Although I was disappointed not to be able to go in, I am happier that the city is finally turning this run down building into a museum and giving respect to the lives it saved (nearly 1100). When I left, I had knot in my stomach. But it was nothing compared to our visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau the next day. Driving along the countryside and seeing the train tracks layed out I began to tear up just thinking about what it must have felt like being taken away from your home and torn from your family in a hot boxcar for days with no food or water to your imminent death. The museum at Auschwitz was horrific and I'm not sure that there are words to describe the complexity of what you feel there. I nearly threw up a couple of times. Particularly disturbing was the huge room of hair, taken from the dead to be used for textile material. I cannot even think about it without tears. I will not go into more detail here as it is a bit too difficult to talk about and I would rather focus now on the beauty of Poland.
We finished up sightseeing with a trip to the Salt Mines just south of the city. There happened to be a wedding that day in the massive underground Cathedral. So the red carpet was rolled out and white roses lavished on the alter. It was so beautiful, truly the highlight of the mine. The rest, I must say, was borderline cheesy. I mean, the gnomes flashing? Not so impressive.
Our last day in your lovely country was on the train that we took to Prague (Praha). The countryside is so beautiful! I'm glad that we didn't take the night train instead. I was rather scared when a bridge fell the day before causing the day train to crash. Quite frightening. I thought it would impede subsequent trains, but it seemed it was business as usual by the time we left. In any case, thank you again for sharing all the beauty and even the sadness of your country with us. It was truly appreciated and memorable.
With Kindest Regards,
Jeff and Mollie

Rainy Russia or It's Always Sunny in Saint Petersburg

Picture in your mind if you will the villianous Russian woman with high cheekbones, piercing blue eyes and a scowl on her face from any James Bond or Indiana Jones film, let's call her Olga. Can you see her? She is the woman at passport control. Welcome to Russia!
I must admit that I was rather frightened about this stint in Russia. They do like to interrogate you on the street and there are all sorts of laws about registering your passport and travel and etc. But in truth, my fears were probably over exaggerated. We must have blended in a bit because people kept speaking in Russian to us and, oddly, I got asked if I spoke German about 10 times. Maybe I look a bit Deutsch. Moscow and St Petersburg are like day and night but there are some things that you will find true no matter where you go. One is the fact that there are war memorials everywhere to honor the 27 million Russians who died in WWII, its very moving. They both had extensive subway systems (St Petersburg is the deepest in the world). The women look like supermodels, but I never saw one actually eat. Lastly buying tickets or standing in line will take you 3 times as long as anywhere else IN THE WORLD. But thats pretty much where the similarities end....
Our first stop in Mother Russia was to the political metropolis of Moscow. It was like we stepped back in time 30 years, at least from a technological standpoint. They have a wonderful subway...straight from the 1960's. Everything here is a bit archaic, even compared to Thailand. The escaltors run on a switch controled by villianous Olga's BFF. Ever heard of Visa? Not in Moscova. Nor will you find any sign in English or anyone who speaks it. The people here can be a bit cold, try not make eye contact, its less awkward that way. But I must say, once you get past all that, it is quite enjoyable. The Kremlin was very interesting. You have a choice of museums in the Kremlin itself, we did all them. The diamond fund inside the Armory had quite the showcase of Russian jewels. Spectacular. The armory itself is filled with treasures of the Tsars and Russian history. We also went inside the famous St Basil's Cathedral (it needs a little love). The Russians also love themselves some Peter the Great. There is a statue of him twice the height of the Statue of Liberty sitting in the Moscow river. All in all Moscow is a bit what you think: Stoic, Proud, Russian, Very Lenin, and Cold. One last note on Moscow that we missed in our travel book: It will rain.
But its always sunny in Saint Petersburg. St Petersburg is lovely. Romantic. Historic. And maybe you have heard a little museum called the Hermitage. We arrived an hour after it opened and waited in line for 1.5 hours (about the same as the Kremlin). But my oh my. It was just dripping with history and art. For those of you who don't know, there are over 3 million pieces of art in this one museum. But that's not the half of it. The museum itself is Peter I old winter palace. And they don't call it a palace for nothing. Grand staircases, ballrooms, chandeliers....I could live there. My favorite stop in this wonderful city was "The Church of Spilt Blood." Which was erected over the very spot where Alexander II was murdered, hence the name. The entire place was filled with mosiacs, floor to ceiling. is It was more beautiful than is possible to describe. We also stopped by St. Isaac's Cathedral who's dome cover with more than 100kg of gold. A quick jog across the river you will find Peter and Paul's fortress, built to withstand the Swedish (not quite the superpower they once were, eh?). There was another cathedral inside there (surprise) where the last royal family of Russia is buried alongside Peter the Great. A nice little beach also runs along one side with a lovely view of old town. I wish we had more time here as it is much more tourism friendly (look a sign in English!) as well as warm and welcoming.
I know have left out a lot of experiences and places but sometimes there is so much that there is just not enough space on a page. Its like that in Russia.

Bangkok the LA of the East

Bangkok's official name is actually Krung Thep Maha Nakhon (I'm thinking of you all trying to pronounce that right now!) which means city of angels. It has some similarities to LA, its got a lot of sprawl (nearly 15 million people), not so much a city skyline, and waterfront (all right, its got a river). It doesn't have Hollywood, but is a bit Venice beach-esque. Lots and Lots and Lots of street vendors some smelling good, some not (gag gag gag). And I will give the one up to the Eastern city for its plethra of massage parlors (not that kind, boys). I do love a footie reflexology massage, especially at $6 an hour. It also has some wonderfully cheap beer (not losing weight yet). But something you won't see as much of in Cali: Buddha.
That's right, Buddha Buddha Buddha rockin everywhere! He's in your tuk tuk, the biggest buildings downtown are dedicated to his holiness, there are streets lining with statues of him. Wait, I see him now, in my Internet cafe. He is an ever present figure here. Watching everything you do. I'm getting used to it and will probably miss his presence when we leave. Jeff is a bit jaded. His reaction to my constant pointing out Buddha is "Great. Another Buddha. Let's go." I made the mistake of wearing a sleeveless dress to a temple the other day. I was promptly given a shawl to borrow and told to cover it up! Evidently my shoulders are scandalous! Never mind the Karma Sutra on the walls or the half naked monks.
I was warned by nearly everyone we met how "AWFUL" Bangkok was. "Why are you staying so long??? Can't you leave sooner???" "It smells, is awful!" In all fairness, it does smell a bit. But I like this place. It's got flavor. Its not awful at all, its a big city but colorful and a little funny at times. Every place we have been has had good and bad points. Its about balance. And maybe its Buddha, but this place has a nice balance.

The Kingdom of Cambodia

My biggest regret thus far in the trip is that we did not have more time in this amazing country. In trying to fit in certain dates/countries we had to cut out Phnom Pehn, the capital. This left us with just 4 days in Siem Reap, the tourist capital and home of the city of Angkor.
The most famous Angkorian temples is Angkor Wat, which at first sight takes your breath away and is at once magnificent, ancient, and harmonious. We spend nearly 2 days exploring the temples which stretch across the landscape hidden among a jungle of foliage and we barely scratch the surface. We climb, we sweat, we drink gallons of water, and by the end of the day we can barely stand. Seeing Angkor is not for the weak or out of shape. But if can, go. Seriously, stop reading and go book your ticket right now. You will never see such amazing things in your entire life. The Khmer architecture is so different and awe-inspiring we literally walked around slack jawed and eyes bulging at every turn. There are temples that are falling in on themselves, some that were covered in giant trees, others that had faces 2 stories high....and everywhere there are Buddhas, people saying prayers and lighting incense. The incense lends a smell of sweetness to the old, falling in buildings giving it not only an air of ancient but of holiness. At a moment of weakness I sit alone high on top of a temple in a doorway feeling the cool breeze and watch as Buddhist monks draped in their saffron robes walk down a forgotten dirt road into the forest. The quiet power of this place is something I can't explain with any fineness.
Angkor is not the only thing beautiful in Siem Reap. It's people, food and colorful nature belie it's brutal past. The locals are overly kind, open, warm, inviting, giving. Our favorite tuk tuk driver, Ken, gives us a special look into life in Cambodia which we find fascinating but melancholy. Here is man who works almost every single day just to feed his wife and two kids. Lives in a hut with no electricity or water. He was forced to quit university 2 years ago while studying English, Japanese and business because he couldn't foot the $450 a year tuition. At 26 is more knowledgeable than most people twice his age, able to discuss world politics and speak perfect English. Yet, he does not fret the circumstances, never complaining. Choosing instead to work hard, do what needs to be done, appreciating what he has and smiling. As we talk, I think I am blessed, I am blessed, I am blessed....

By The Numbers...

SINCE JUNE 12, 2008 up to today, July 26:
Passport Stamps: 15
Visas: 3
Flights taken: 19
Flights missed: 1
Countries: 9
Times in Kuala Lumpur's airport: 3 (we never made it out of the airport!)
Hotels: 10
Hostels: 2
Dorms: 1
Friends House: 1
Airport Floor: 1
Bags sent to US: 2
Pictures taken: 572
Hours of Video: 3.75
Dinners on top of buildings: 4
Games Mollie has won at UNO: 32 out of 40!
Games Jeff has won at Rummy: 23 out of 36!
Trash magazines read: 1 (over and over)
Books read: 4
English TV stations at our hotel in Beijing: 0
Eurail tickets missing: 1 set (or $1300)
Days since we left US: 45
Days until we return to US: 55
Arrests: 0

Full Moon = Crazy Thailand

Well we finally made it to Koh Phangan after one missed flight in Penang (not our fault) and extra night in Malaysia (thanks KY) and a brief stop in Bangkok (thanks Bangkok Air!) and expensive speed boat ride from Koh Samui. But, alas, it was totally worth it. I felt like I was a crazy college kid again, at least on the inside. Even though we were not the sexiest things on the beach we know how to shake our thing and hold our liquor. Things that can only come with age. We also managed to keep our flip flops on all night, a rarity it appeared. But I'm getting ahead of myself...The party of a lifetime begins at sundown and goes well into the next day...they were still getting down around 10am! The drink of choice is served in a bucket (picture the colorful ones you used to play with on the beach) add one pint booze, one can mixer and a shot of red bull and enjoy! Drink quick...it doesn't taste good warm. The whole of the small beach is lined with speakers blaring techno, bucket stands, and neon body paint stations. And everyone is wearing neon body paint...some people ONLY neon body paint. It is pure chaos...fire throwing, flames, laterns up to the sky....my goodness was it great. And literally hundreds of people just going crazy (literally...I'm very sure that more than 1 visited the "mushroom hut" on the hill). And judging from the aftermath we found in the morning, many people were missing shoes, wallets, luggage, etc. And this was day 1.....We stayed on Koh Phangan 4 nights, and everynight there was a party at one resort or another. Our days were filled eating, drinking, watching conterfeit movies at restaurants (the Hulk wasn't bad), and laying on the beach. Sounds terrible, huh? Oh, woe is me it was awful....awful leaving.

Sing Sing Singapore and the Real Penang

Singpore...it even sounds like a song. The city/island/country is less tourism and more realism. The concrete is mixed with tall beautiful trees, a city landscape. Our taxi driver tells us that the foliage was planted by a former king who loved gardens 30 years ago. Its like driving through a garden with skyscrapers. Its such a new country....none of this was here 50 years ago, just rice paddies....so with no major landmarks to see it was just relaxation. And my oh my how nice the locals are! I give Singapore the friendliest country in the world (thus far) award. People just love to stop you on the street and tell you about their amazing city, before you know it you're looking at pictures of their kids and laughing about the Germans. When the sun goes down is when Singapore truly shines. From the rooftop of your hotel you can watch the water taxis wind their way through the city, the freighters light up the harbor, cranes reach up to the stars and the skyline is all around. Its a colorful, bright, friendly city, and if you listen hard enough you can hear it sing to you.
Penang...in all its rawness is an oyster waiting to be opened and discovered, offering up jewels for you to enjoy. We were lucky enough to get a wonderful rural tour by our dear friend, KY, a lifelong local. Now a city boy, he gave us the highlights of town (and Singapore's Tiger beer) as well as his own history, in the country. We went for a swim in a waterfall, the only people there, and for a treetop walk with the wild monkeys. Yes, we really did that. We also met KY's school teacher and saw where his home used to stand. There were cows on the streets and goats in the grass....he says he is lucky to have come so far, to have moved to the city, to go to school, work with a good company, to know us. KY is also my resident philospher, a man of many facets...too many to list. He will joke with you one moment and in the next say something deep and profound, in essence a wonderful guide to the true Penang, the real Malaysia. Can you really understand a person or country without understanding their past? Walking here, eating here, listening here I begin to have the smallest mustard seed of understanding of what it is like.

Goodbye Aussies!

Well we have finally departed from the long, cold Australian winter. We did have a last few adventures outside Melbourne which were very memorable. First, we went on a bus tour of the great ocean road. Its similar to the pacific coast hwy, but with kangaroos and koalas. We made quite a few stops at the landmarks, including the twelve apostles, london bridge, and shipwrecked coves. It was very beautiful and truly a highlight of the trip. Unfortunately for me, it was a long and winding road. Which means the motion sickness was in full effect. More than once I was keeled over staring at the fish and chips from hours before....taking in the beauty of the place. Other than that, it was a lot of fun and breathtaking. In addition to being beautiful, the road is actually quite historic. It was built by WWI veterans returning home to find the economy in the gutter in addition to their psychological scars. The road took 30 years to complete with pick axes and wheelbarrows. They worked in groups that we comprised of their original regiment. When the road was finished, the economy had recovered and their minds were in a better place. The road was a path to healing.
We also took off for a day in Sydney. Which happens to be the ONLY sunny day we had in Australia. Sydney was great! Jeff and I layed in the soft warm grassy sunshine of the Botanical Gardens near the waterfront taking in the view of opera house and bridge. I could have stayed in that moment forever. But it was off to the aquarium at Darling Harbour. Which was super fun and full of sharks. We spent much of the day just wandering and enjoying the scenery. Our night ended on our hostel balcony with a bottle of Champagne....tres magnific! Luckily we made it out of the city early in the am, just before they shut down the city for the Pope's first visit to Australia. It was a long day on to Singapore....

Melbourne in the Winter

Good Day Mates! As I sit here writing this, I'm wearing two long sleeve shirts, a jacket, a hat, two pairs of pants and a couple pairs of socks. And I'm still a bit chilly. Being cold in July isn't something that I'm very accustomed to. It has definitely forced me to understand the public transportation system here quickly. I've been tramming and busing my way through the city to see the wonderful things here. I've all ready hit both National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) International and Australian. Both buildings were amazing works of art in of themselves. The architecture here is just phenomenal. They are on the very cutting edge of design, yet still manage to keep up the old buildings. It's this juxtapose of old and new sharing the same sidewalk that give the city a unique edge. While my days have been comprised of amazing museums and city exploration, poor Jeff has been doing his time in a classroom. We did have a fun weekend together, though.
The ASU/University of Melbourne group went on a couple of tours. Saturday we trekked out of the city in search of wildlife. We hit up an Australian petting zoo, the wallabies and kangaroos were especially cute and friendly. The llama was bit aggressive (bad llama!) and definitely don't go near the emu's (they will snap off one of your fingers and maybe an eye!). After that quick stop, we headed over to Philip island and sat on the beach til our butts froze off. It was all to watch the smallest penguins in the world come in from sea and get back to their little burrows on the land. It was actually much more interesting than I make it sound. In fact, the signs boast that it is an award winning experience. I wonder what the award looks like?? In any case, that place was packed! Hundreds of people from all over the world just watching these little penguins do their thing. Sunday was a bit more up my alley. We headed out to the Yarra Valley which is famous for wine! We only had the chance to hit up a few places but it was so beautiful! In fact, I'm not sure which was better the wine or the scenery. Our first stop at Chandon was FAB-U-LOS! Nothing like a bit of champagne in the morning (right Leslie?), I wish I could start every day this way and not just Sundays!
Now, for what you really want to know.....does the water swirl down the toilet in a different direction when flushed? The answer is: I have no clue! All the WC's here have no swirl effect. They just throw out water (you should be careful) and suck it back at the same rate, so no swirly. Very disappointing! Also, I should let you all know that I am the least fashionably dressed lady in this city. Seriously. They are big big big on the knee high boots (I'm a fan) and everyone and I mean everyone is sporting them. Grandmas on the tram tsk tsk my unflattering tennis shoes. As for the boys, I don't know how they get those jeans on. Not that I am complaining. In the States the pants are so baggy I see half the undies, they're practically spray painted on here. Very Pete Wentz. And if you are planning a visit, bust out that wallet! A matinee at the movies is $16 a person. I saw an 18 pack of coke ON SALE for $22. And beer? Don't even think about it! A case of Corona or similar will set you back $60.
Well my fingers are freezing up so I've got to end this. We're heading to Sydney for the weekend so I'll update you then!

Beijing Used to Be Peking

How do I love thee, Beijing? Let me count the ways: I love your food, your beautiful parks and green expanses, I love your smiling faces, your funny tasting popsicles, I love your tranquility and gentleness, your pride, I love your shiny subway, your kindness, I love your old temples and rose gardens....

I could go on and on. Beijing is a historic city that transcends time. A walk through Tianamen Square and see you the bold, stoic buildings of Communism on one end and the magnificent, ancient Forbidden City on the other. We wait with the long line of Chinese people in the rain to see Chairman Mao resting in his crystal coffin. The locals lay roses at a marble statue of him in the entrance, paying their respects. I take a moment to admire the People's Monument, a grandiose sculpture, standing out in the middle of it all. I think of the Time magazine cover of the young man in 70's that rose up against the army in this square. It's such a large place.

We take a walk across the street to the Forbidden City, crossing through the massive doors, over the mote, to the temples with names like "Eternal Happiness," "Tranquility," and "Hall of Contentment." I start naming the smaller buildings after movies (Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, Temple of Doom). We go up and down stairs weaving through the massive city/palace losing our way. All the while I keep looking for the Starbucks (it's closed). But the Forbidden City isn't even the best thing to see, in my opinion. I liked walking the Temple of Heaven and the massive lakes/gardens of the Summer Palace. The Temple of Heaven is filled with locals doing Tai Chi, swing dancing, playing music, picnicking....its such a wonderful place to just sit and watch or to jump up and join in (which I HAD to do). The Summer Palace is filled with bridges and peach trees and lily pads...I love every second we are here.
Now, what you all have been waiting for...drum roll please.....THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA! It's even cooler than I thought would be. Our driver takes us to the Mutianyu portion of the great wall where you can ride a tram up to the top instead of walking. But we're young, eh? We can walk. Exhausted at the top, we realize maybe we should have saved our energy. But first I order a beer. Feeling refreshed, we literally scale, rock climb, and in some cases hang on for dear life as we walk the entire stretch of the wall to the unrestored section ( no sides, trees growing in the middle----don't go near that edge). Looking to one side is China, and to the other the old Mongolian side. For all that work, there is not a moment of disappointment. I wonder what the Mongolians thought when approaching this monster, or how tiring it must have been to walk up to your post in armor on this thing. I think about the millions of lives that were lost building it, buried in it, and now, here I am, standing on it and them. In the moments that we take a rest, we are quiet, not really knowing how to express the feelings this place can bring up in you. We (I) decide we cannot possible walk down. My legs are shaking uncontrollably, I'm hot and cold with sweat, and now it has started raining a bit. But there is an alternative to riding down in a tram. You can, at your own risk, fly down the thing in a one man luge. The haphazard metal track winds from the great wall down to where you started. Trust me, this thing would never pass an OSHA standard. Obviously, we chose to risk our life. We have to wait for the rain to stop, then we say a prayer that the brakes will work and GO! No sides, big drops, fast, and exciting I luge my way to the bottom. What a ride! All I can think is, I love Beijing!

The Ancient City of Xian

This is the China I have come to see! Secret tombs, pleasure palaces, ancient relics, ahhh... History! I only wish we would have had more time here. After a very long delay at Shanghai airport...we made it in late to Xian, missing our chance to see anything on the first day. In reality we only had one full day in this amazing city. We hired a driver (Mr D) who took us to see the Terracotta Warriors, The Mound Tomb, Silk Factory, and Hot Springs Pleasure Palace.

The terra cotta warriors were jaw dropping. With our trusty guide, Helen, we went into the three "pits" they have begun to unearth. In total there are 600 pits they have found! In the three pits they have for viewing, there are a total of some 8,000 warriors all ready dug out, each one taking nearly 6 months to put together. They are life size ranging from 5'5" to 6'5" with each face and hairstyle different. There are flank soilders, archers, kneeling archers.....it goes on and on. They have stopped digging them up because soon after being exposed them to the air, the color fades completely away. In some of the new pits they are finding bronze animals, acrobats, lawyers, civil officials, and human remains (so far more than 10,000 people). This in one reason why the tomb had gone undiscovered for so long....He killed everyone who knew about it. His family, the artists who bulit the warriors, army, everyone! The tomb was discovered in 1974 by farmers digging a well. We actually met one of them while visiting the tomb mound.....

Unlike the warrior pits, the mound was in much need of some care. Things here were falling

apart and gardens have been left untended. Jeff and I did some wandering around, sneakily. We climbed to the top of the mound and read that the king's tomb (which has not been opened) is full of mercury. And they suspect booby trapped! Sounds like a job for Indiana Jones....This is the tomb (including the terracotta warriors) of the first Emperor to unite China. He was also the one who comissioned the Great Wall. But, he was a brutal and ruthless ruler. In his time, he ordered all books be destroyed. And many of the people buried at the tomb were bound, suspecting they were actually buried alive.

The hot springs palace was massive, and beautiful. It was also the the sight of the Xian incident if any of you have seen "The Last Emperor of China." You could take a bath or a shower in the springs (uhhh-no, and you wouldn't want to either if you saw the bath tub), but mostly it was best enjoyed by simply wandering about.

I'm sad to have to leave Xian, there is so much more to explore. I try to wrap my head around all we have seen here and am still blown away. Even driving into this city was impressive, the massive wall that surrounds the now thriving downtown is 3 car lengths deep and carries secrets of the past. So a note to all: Give yourself 3 days here! I hope that when we spend our next weekend in Beijing it will just as breathtaking.

Hello Shanghai!

Shanghai is a city with its own vibe. The traffic moves rythmically yet sporadically through the street. Various shades of Volkswagen taxis vroom in and out and over. There are bus lanes, moped lanes, bike lanes and car lanes all of them coming and going and turning and, yes, even reversing. If you are not careful, any one of these could be the last thing you ever see. Yet for all its chaos, it works. Traffic here is like a living thing, ebbing and flowing as if it were alive. And once you become part of it, whether by taxi or your own two feet, you can start to feel the rythm of Shanghai.
Everyone here has there own sense of style. There is no particular brand of cool. But they will try to sell you American cool. "You like baggie???? Watchie??? Tag Huer??? I show you....You follow me..." Nothing runs in a straight line here. Everything is zig zagging in and out of your vision. It can all be very disorienting. (Is that the place we had good dumplings? No, I don't remember that building....maybe its over there by the guy selling faucets....") I feel like half the time in I'm in the way (please don't run me over!) and the other half just lost! It is a city I could stay in maybe forever, happily. But one that, truly, I am not all that sad to leave. There are wonderful, wonderful things here: Silk markets, fun subway shopping, nice monuments and parks.... Yet, maybe like the great knockoffs everywhere, it somehow falls just a little short of the real thing for me.

Seoul of Asia

As our time in Seoul nears an end I'm finally ready to reflect on our short stay in this amazing metropolis. I'll start with some demographics to give a picture: There is more than 10 million people living in Seoul (more than New York City!), 28 bridges that intertwine the city (almost as many as Paris), and the N Seoul Tower is 777ft high (towering over Seattle's Needle). To give you a more vivid picture: 1/2 the city is in English (some of which translates: "Buy the Way" convience store and others not: its a "Happy Worry" and "Big Tall Man Club"), 99.9% of the cars here are black, gray or white, the older men wear fishing vests everywhere, there is a cartoon to go with everything here (Hello Kitty is a particular favorite), and all the women wear sky high heels. The toliets have been especially surprising...they are computerized to massage you, heat the seat, air your booty and many many more things we are all bit too shy to try.
We have had an excellent time trying the local fare: yes to the jellyfish, no to the deep fried silk larve. They must love coffee because its everywhere, surprisingly Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf's far outnumber the Starbucks. I also spotted a Costco today on the way to Seoul Grand Park. We have also been blessed with an excellent guide, Tracie. She has shown us some simply amazing places to eat, my favorite being Anna Bini's. It's a flower shop, bakery, and amazing Italian eatery all in one! With the most amazing Coconut Sorbet which I have dubbed "Miss Hawaiian Tropic 2008." She's also given us a great tip on the Great Wall which you'll just have to check back to find out!
Next stop Shanghai!

10 days til takeoff!

We are packing the bags and prepping for our journey. I can't believe we are out of here in only a few more days! My stomach is all gnarly and arms sore (thanks vaccinations) and anticipation is high. Our passports are still on vacation at the Russian embassy due back just in time (literally) for our departure (June 13th--Friday the 13th-oooooohhhhhh). So no stress there.... In any case be sure to check back often as we will be posting pics and writing all about our travels here, and let you know of any emergencies :) NEXT STOP SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA....