Feeling exhausted and burned out from all the travel, we made it to our safe haven, House of Bugbee. I had looked forward to this for almost 2 weeks and it did not disappoint! Mike was Jeff’s fraternity brother back at MSU. He and his wife, Emilie, and their 2 adorable kids (and another one on the way) have been living just outside Frankfurt for the past year. They were kind enough to take our smelly, worn out selves in. And thank goodness! I was nearly at my wits end, practically having breakdowns every time I had to pack the bag again. I can’t say enough about their lovely family. Emilie was kind enough to make us the first home cooked meal we have had in months and help us with our laundry (desperately needed). Mike took us out to the Rhine Valley sightseeing one day, which was the best part of Germany thus far. We went on a half day tour of a local town, Wiesbaden. And the rest of the time we just lounged, lazed and played. It was pure bliss and brought us back to life.
I’m not sure what Wiesbaden is famous for…money, beauty, the little train that works on water and a pulley? It had all of them. The houses here are like something out of a movie set and the stores are filled with Prada, Gucci, and D&G. I saw a pretty red jacket that I would have sold everything in my backpack for. It was ridiculously expensive, something like 2300 euros, ouch! Guess I’ll have to settle for the coffee mug souvenir instead. The town was charming to say the least. We had a picnic in a park, with chips and whatever they call salsa (it tastes like tomato paste and sweet and sour sauce).
Even better than Wiesbaden is the Rhine Valley, which is famous for the Rhine River and Wine. More specifically, Riesling. The valley’s rolling hills are accentuated by the castles that are perched along the river, watching over the vineyards and quaint houses. This is Germany! Our lunch even had entertainment courtesy of a little polka band complete with a tuba. Ok, it’s a bit touristy but I could care less. Throw on a fanny pack and tie a camera around my neck, here I come!
That was pretty much the extent of sightseeing here, but no complaints from me. My favorite parts of the last few days have been reading kids books and doing dishes. So thanks again to Mike, Emilie, Ben, Katie and Unborn Baby Bugbee for everything. Who knows, you might see us again next year. Oktoberfest, anyone?
Monday, August 25, 2008
Friday, August 22, 2008
Amsterdam in the Moonlight
Even the flag here is XXX, literally. It's written on the flag. But what would you expect from a city where prostitution and marajuana is legal? I actually found it much tamer than it's reputation lets on. However, I did find out that the coffee shops specialize in more things than espresso. If you're wondering...no I did not partake in anything thats illegal in the States. What a prudy I am! I did have a few Heinekens and Amstels tho. Watch out! In any case there is more to this "city of sin" than just red lights and hookas. For starters there are the bicycles. At first, its quaint. Then, it's annoying. There must be twice the amount of bicycles as people in this city. And they don't stop for pedestrians (even when you have the green walk light). I had flashbacks of my run in with the mystery spandex clad cyclist (the one that broke my foot). They are all equipped with annoying little bells that they ring at you if you come one cenimeter over the tiny sidewalk into "their area". I felt like clothes-lining half of them. Besides the bicycles there is also the very popular Van Gogh Museum. As a Van Gogh lover, I was in heaven. Jeff, was bored and tired of walking. We both loved the Anne Frank House. It's a very moving tribute to the holocaust that puts a face to the tragedy. Unfortunately it was rainy rainy rainy the entire time here. Thus, you could pretty much count out a boat ride or any serious walking. I enjoyed simply checking out the architecture. It never failed to surprise. All the buildings were a bit...off kilter. Maybe they were smoking something....
The nightlife even without all the "extras" was still fun. We happened to be sharing our room with two very fun loving Irish girls, Annie and Jenny, that we went out with a couple nights. I think they throughlly out drank both of us. *Note to self, never challenge a Irish to a drinking contest.* It was good times, Jeff and I finally got to go dancing again. SO NICE. Also in our room was a Russian/Finnish dude named Johan. He was definitely interesting. I don't know if he's on Russia's or Georgia's side, but he loves Putin. Like I said, interesting to talk to.
I'm not sure if Amsterdam is a city I'd come back to or not. I'm still on the fence. But I can confidently say there is no other city quite like it.
The nightlife even without all the "extras" was still fun. We happened to be sharing our room with two very fun loving Irish girls, Annie and Jenny, that we went out with a couple nights. I think they throughlly out drank both of us. *Note to self, never challenge a Irish to a drinking contest.* It was good times, Jeff and I finally got to go dancing again. SO NICE. Also in our room was a Russian/Finnish dude named Johan. He was definitely interesting. I don't know if he's on Russia's or Georgia's side, but he loves Putin. Like I said, interesting to talk to.
I'm not sure if Amsterdam is a city I'd come back to or not. I'm still on the fence. But I can confidently say there is no other city quite like it.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
A Brief History of Berlin
Going to Berlin is like taking a history lesson, but obviously much cooler. Being in a city that was nearly leveled in 1945 is a bit surreal. I mean, their government is younger than I am. This is where WWII started, and, for Europe, ended. Just trying to grasp that will take you all the time you have here. Then there is “The Wall.” That would require another week. We stayed in East Berlin, and after visiting the West side, I realize this is very much a city still divided. They call it “the wall in the head.” If going to Moscow is an education in communism, going to Berlin shows you how it was executed (iron curtain). But all of this history is shrouded in the modernism of a new city. The buildings are edgy and forward. Even their history museums manage to incorporate cutting edge art into their exhibitions. But all I kept wondering is Berlin a city stuck in the past because of its misdeeds or a city on the forefront of society?
Maybe Neither. Maybe it was my own conceptions of what happened here that kept me so attached to the past. Maybe it is my love of modern art that attracts me to the future of Berlin. I don’t know. When you look at the 1936 Olympic Stadium do you see swastikas and armies of Germans marching instep? Or do you see a modern stadium that recently held the World Cup full fans cheering excitedly for their teams? Maybe they are both. Berlin is a city that must accept their past in order to have a future. Where it seems the previous generations tried to forget the newer generations seems bent on remembering not to forget. When the government halted work on the museum, Topography of Terror, it was the youth here that protested to have it finished (it was reinstated and they are currently working on it). There are many examples of this, none more visible then the Memorial to the Murdered Jews, which lies in central Berlin as a reminder of what began in this city. When walking, if you look down, the double row of bricks that zig-zag through the city mark where the Berlin Wall once stood. Here, you don’t have to seek the history out, it finds you.
There are many stories I heard while I was here, of families and lovers being separated by the wall, of wild escape stories, secret bunkers, and tragic opposition to government. And I hope I get to tell many of them to you one day. But when I think of my experience here, and all this city has seen, I am reminded of a speech given on the top of the stairs at the Reichstag during a rally in 1954 West Berlin as a plea “People of the world, look at this city!”
Maybe Neither. Maybe it was my own conceptions of what happened here that kept me so attached to the past. Maybe it is my love of modern art that attracts me to the future of Berlin. I don’t know. When you look at the 1936 Olympic Stadium do you see swastikas and armies of Germans marching instep? Or do you see a modern stadium that recently held the World Cup full fans cheering excitedly for their teams? Maybe they are both. Berlin is a city that must accept their past in order to have a future. Where it seems the previous generations tried to forget the newer generations seems bent on remembering not to forget. When the government halted work on the museum, Topography of Terror, it was the youth here that protested to have it finished (it was reinstated and they are currently working on it). There are many examples of this, none more visible then the Memorial to the Murdered Jews, which lies in central Berlin as a reminder of what began in this city. When walking, if you look down, the double row of bricks that zig-zag through the city mark where the Berlin Wall once stood. Here, you don’t have to seek the history out, it finds you.
There are many stories I heard while I was here, of families and lovers being separated by the wall, of wild escape stories, secret bunkers, and tragic opposition to government. And I hope I get to tell many of them to you one day. But when I think of my experience here, and all this city has seen, I am reminded of a speech given on the top of the stairs at the Reichstag during a rally in 1954 West Berlin as a plea “People of the world, look at this city!”
Friday, August 15, 2008
Czeching out Prague!
Pretty Prague: Land of castles, old bridges, gothic churches, Kafka and the famous astrological clock. We happened to be staying right around the corner from another landmark, the “Dancing Building,” designed my Frank Gehry (he also designed some fancy jewelry for Tiffany & Co). But maybe even better than that was the little Czech restaurant across the street from our hostel. The tall Pilsner’s only ran us $2 a piece. Plus the food was great (I highly recommend the potato pancakes with bleu cheese).
Our first day, we hit up Prague castle which sits stately up a hill watching over the city. It’s a long walk but well worth the view. To get there you cross over the landmark St Charles Bridge. On it, statues line the whole thing. But one in particular is special because it signifies the spot where a watch-guard was thrown to his death for not revealing the extramarital affairs of the Queen, racy thing that she was. Once inside Prague Castle you walk through the cathedrals, museums, down golden lane, and to the former torture tower. After I got us thoroughly lost on the way down we walked back up to check out the “must see” singing fountain. Well, it doesn’t sing. And it’s itty-bitty. So, maybe not so must see in my book, especially since it meant climbing the 300 some stairs back up to the gardens. Jeff will never let me live that one down. Now, as far as the other “must see” in every travel book is the Old Town Hall Astrological Clock. Supposedly, the town officials loved it so much that they thanked the artist by cutting out his eyes so that he could never make something more beautiful in another town. Lovely little story, huh? So there we are at noon, with the other throngs of tourists, pushing and shoving to see this clock work its magic. It rings, doors slide open, apostles slide past, and then….nothing. Jeff looked up and said, “Seriously?” Now, I know I’m making Prague sound a little overrated, but I assure it is not. One of the best possible things to do here is just take a walk. Most historians agree that Prague is architecturally one of the best preserved towns in Europe. It also has a thriving art community and rich recent history. Among other things, it boasts the oldest synagogue and Jewish cemetery in Europe. Josef, the Jewish sector, has an excellent little church, Pinkas. In which, 80,000 Czech Jewish holocaust victim’s names are written out with their days of birth and death. Very moving. Prague is so rich culturally; you could skip all the “must sees” and still have a very full and memorable agenda. I would definitely go back again, especially with a couple of neighbors.
Our first day, we hit up Prague castle which sits stately up a hill watching over the city. It’s a long walk but well worth the view. To get there you cross over the landmark St Charles Bridge. On it, statues line the whole thing. But one in particular is special because it signifies the spot where a watch-guard was thrown to his death for not revealing the extramarital affairs of the Queen, racy thing that she was. Once inside Prague Castle you walk through the cathedrals, museums, down golden lane, and to the former torture tower. After I got us thoroughly lost on the way down we walked back up to check out the “must see” singing fountain. Well, it doesn’t sing. And it’s itty-bitty. So, maybe not so must see in my book, especially since it meant climbing the 300 some stairs back up to the gardens. Jeff will never let me live that one down. Now, as far as the other “must see” in every travel book is the Old Town Hall Astrological Clock. Supposedly, the town officials loved it so much that they thanked the artist by cutting out his eyes so that he could never make something more beautiful in another town. Lovely little story, huh? So there we are at noon, with the other throngs of tourists, pushing and shoving to see this clock work its magic. It rings, doors slide open, apostles slide past, and then….nothing. Jeff looked up and said, “Seriously?” Now, I know I’m making Prague sound a little overrated, but I assure it is not. One of the best possible things to do here is just take a walk. Most historians agree that Prague is architecturally one of the best preserved towns in Europe. It also has a thriving art community and rich recent history. Among other things, it boasts the oldest synagogue and Jewish cemetery in Europe. Josef, the Jewish sector, has an excellent little church, Pinkas. In which, 80,000 Czech Jewish holocaust victim’s names are written out with their days of birth and death. Very moving. Prague is so rich culturally; you could skip all the “must sees” and still have a very full and memorable agenda. I would definitely go back again, especially with a couple of neighbors.
Monday, August 11, 2008
High Maintence Mo
Okay, so I've always thought of myself as pretty low maintence (maybe medium maintence). But I think I've just jumped up a notch. Because, really people, if hair conditioner, face wash, shaving ones legs, traveling by plane (and not hot sweaty trains), 2 ply toliet paper, feather pillows, clean bathrooms, clean clothes (!), pedicures, a suitcase, perfume, and a room of ones own is high maintence then sign me up for the Paris Hilton tour (but keep the panties on). I miss Walgreens because they sell nearly everything one needs from cough medicine to cheetos. I long for unflavored potato chips. There is truly something disturbing about seafood flavored chips. And get the shrimp off my pizza while your at it! I also want you to know that half my clothes currently smell a bit like menthol because of all the massages in Thailand. No matter how many times I wash my clothes in the sink (I miss washers/dryers like no one's business!), there is still that smell! I want to chuck everything from my backpack because it's getting heavier by the day and I still have a month+ to go. I always fancied myself drinking Champagne (ahhh you sweet nectar, how I miss you!) in Paris, but with the Euro I might have to settle for sparkling water. So there you have it! I have become (or maybe always have been) a high maintence woman!
But no worries everyone I won't be ditching any of you for Paris, Britney or Lindsay.
But no worries everyone I won't be ditching any of you for Paris, Britney or Lindsay.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
A Letter to Poland
Dear Poland,
I want to thank you for all your hospitality on our recent visit. Your people were more than welcoming and your country is so picturesque and beautiful. I am sad to say that we only had the opportunity to visit the Krakow (Cracovia) area. I found the city pleasantly surprising. Wawel castle and all its legends were spectacular and very medieval. Old town was quaint and charming. It was refreshing to see local farmers markets set up on nearly every 5th block. The nearly constant presence of the nuns and priests from the over 50 monasteries in the city gave it a holy and tranquil feeling. I didn't know that Pope John Paul II was a cardinal here! Your univeristy is also to be admired, it did train Copernicus after all, and is the 3rd oldest institution in Europe. To say the least, I was rather impressed.
We also did some historical sojourns. The old Jewish ghetto was a sad reminder of Krakow's horrific losses. With the Jewish population here now only in the hundreds its hard to think that nearly one in every five people in Krakow and one in every three in Warsaw used to be Jewish. We walked through the alley along what remained of the original wall to Oskar Schindler's old factory. Having watched the movie, it was especially moving to see the place itself. Although I was disappointed not to be able to go in, I am happier that the city is finally turning this run down building into a museum and giving respect to the lives it saved (nearly 1100). When I left, I had knot in my stomach. But it was nothing compared to our visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau the next day. Driving along the countryside and seeing the train tracks layed out I began to tear up just thinking about what it must have felt like being taken away from your home and torn from your family in a hot boxcar for days with no food or water to your imminent death. The museum at Auschwitz was horrific and I'm not sure that there are words to describe the complexity of what you feel there. I nearly threw up a couple of times. Particularly disturbing was the huge room of hair, taken from the dead to be used for textile material. I cannot even think about it without tears. I will not go into more detail here as it is a bit too difficult to talk about and I would rather focus now on the beauty of Poland.
We finished up sightseeing with a trip to the Salt Mines just south of the city. There happened to be a wedding that day in the massive underground Cathedral. So the red carpet was rolled out and white roses lavished on the alter. It was so beautiful, truly the highlight of the mine. The rest, I must say, was borderline cheesy. I mean, the gnomes flashing? Not so impressive.
Our last day in your lovely country was on the train that we took to Prague (Praha). The countryside is so beautiful! I'm glad that we didn't take the night train instead. I was rather scared when a bridge fell the day before causing the day train to crash. Quite frightening. I thought it would impede subsequent trains, but it seemed it was business as usual by the time we left. In any case, thank you again for sharing all the beauty and even the sadness of your country with us. It was truly appreciated and memorable.
With Kindest Regards,
Jeff and Mollie
I want to thank you for all your hospitality on our recent visit. Your people were more than welcoming and your country is so picturesque and beautiful. I am sad to say that we only had the opportunity to visit the Krakow (Cracovia) area. I found the city pleasantly surprising. Wawel castle and all its legends were spectacular and very medieval. Old town was quaint and charming. It was refreshing to see local farmers markets set up on nearly every 5th block. The nearly constant presence of the nuns and priests from the over 50 monasteries in the city gave it a holy and tranquil feeling. I didn't know that Pope John Paul II was a cardinal here! Your univeristy is also to be admired, it did train Copernicus after all, and is the 3rd oldest institution in Europe. To say the least, I was rather impressed.
We also did some historical sojourns. The old Jewish ghetto was a sad reminder of Krakow's horrific losses. With the Jewish population here now only in the hundreds its hard to think that nearly one in every five people in Krakow and one in every three in Warsaw used to be Jewish. We walked through the alley along what remained of the original wall to Oskar Schindler's old factory. Having watched the movie, it was especially moving to see the place itself. Although I was disappointed not to be able to go in, I am happier that the city is finally turning this run down building into a museum and giving respect to the lives it saved (nearly 1100). When I left, I had knot in my stomach. But it was nothing compared to our visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau the next day. Driving along the countryside and seeing the train tracks layed out I began to tear up just thinking about what it must have felt like being taken away from your home and torn from your family in a hot boxcar for days with no food or water to your imminent death. The museum at Auschwitz was horrific and I'm not sure that there are words to describe the complexity of what you feel there. I nearly threw up a couple of times. Particularly disturbing was the huge room of hair, taken from the dead to be used for textile material. I cannot even think about it without tears. I will not go into more detail here as it is a bit too difficult to talk about and I would rather focus now on the beauty of Poland.
We finished up sightseeing with a trip to the Salt Mines just south of the city. There happened to be a wedding that day in the massive underground Cathedral. So the red carpet was rolled out and white roses lavished on the alter. It was so beautiful, truly the highlight of the mine. The rest, I must say, was borderline cheesy. I mean, the gnomes flashing? Not so impressive.
Our last day in your lovely country was on the train that we took to Prague (Praha). The countryside is so beautiful! I'm glad that we didn't take the night train instead. I was rather scared when a bridge fell the day before causing the day train to crash. Quite frightening. I thought it would impede subsequent trains, but it seemed it was business as usual by the time we left. In any case, thank you again for sharing all the beauty and even the sadness of your country with us. It was truly appreciated and memorable.
With Kindest Regards,
Jeff and Mollie
Friday, August 8, 2008
Rainy Russia or It's Always Sunny in Saint Petersburg
Picture in your mind if you will the villianous Russian woman with high cheekbones, piercing blue eyes and a scowl on her face from any James Bond or Indiana Jones film, let's call her Olga. Can you see her? She is the woman at passport control. Welcome to Russia!
I must admit that I was rather frightened about this stint in Russia. They do like to interrogate you on the street and there are all sorts of laws about registering your passport and travel and etc. But in truth, my fears were probably over exaggerated. We must have blended in a bit because people kept speaking in Russian to us and, oddly, I got asked if I spoke German about 10 times. Maybe I look a bit Deutsch. Moscow and St Petersburg are like day and night but there are some things that you will find true no matter where you go. One is the fact that there are war memorials everywhere to honor the 27 million Russians who died in WWII, its very moving. They both had extensive subway systems (St Petersburg is the deepest in the world). The women look like supermodels, but I never saw one actually eat. Lastly buying tickets or standing in line will take you 3 times as long as anywhere else IN THE WORLD. But thats pretty much where the similarities end....
Our first stop in Mother Russia was to the political metropolis of Moscow. It was like we stepped back in time 30 years, at least from a technological standpoint. They have a wonderful subway...straight from the 1960's. Everything here is a bit archaic, even compared to Thailand. The escaltors run on a switch controled by villianous Olga's BFF. Ever heard of Visa? Not in Moscova. Nor will you find any sign in English or anyone who speaks it. The people here can be a bit cold, try not make eye contact, its less awkward that way. But I must say, once you get past all that, it is quite enjoyable. The Kremlin was very interesting. You have a choice of museums in the Kremlin itself, we did all them. The diamond fund inside the Armory had quite the showcase of Russian jewels. Spectacular. The armory itself is filled with treasures of the Tsars and Russian history. We also went inside the famous St Basil's Cathedral (it needs a little love). The Russians also love themselves some Peter the Great. There is a statue of him twice the height of the Statue of Liberty sitting in the Moscow river. All in all Moscow is a bit what you think: Stoic, Proud, Russian, Very Lenin, and Cold. One last note on Moscow that we missed in our travel book: It will rain.
But its always sunny in Saint Petersburg. St Petersburg is lovely. Romantic. Historic. And maybe you have heard a little museum called the Hermitage. We arrived an hour after it opened and waited in line for 1.5 hours (about the same as the Kremlin). But my oh my. It was just dripping with history and art. For those of you who don't know, there are over 3 million pieces of art in this one museum. But that's not the half of it. The museum itself is Peter I old winter palace. And they don't call it a palace for nothing. Grand staircases, ballrooms, chandeliers....I could live there. My favorite stop in this wonderful city was "The Church of Spilt Blood." Which was erected over the very spot where Alexander II was murdered, hence the name. The entire place was filled with mosiacs, floor to ceiling. is It was more beautiful than is possible to describe. We also stopped by St. Isaac's Cathedral who's dome cover with more than 100kg of gold. A quick jog across the river you will find Peter and Paul's fortress, built to withstand the Swedish (not quite the superpower they once were, eh?). There was another cathedral inside there (surprise) where the last royal family of Russia is buried alongside Peter the Great. A nice little beach also runs along one side with a lovely view of old town. I wish we had more time here as it is much more tourism friendly (look a sign in English!) as well as warm and welcoming.
I know have left out a lot of experiences and places but sometimes there is so much that there is just not enough space on a page. Its like that in Russia.
I must admit that I was rather frightened about this stint in Russia. They do like to interrogate you on the street and there are all sorts of laws about registering your passport and travel and etc. But in truth, my fears were probably over exaggerated. We must have blended in a bit because people kept speaking in Russian to us and, oddly, I got asked if I spoke German about 10 times. Maybe I look a bit Deutsch. Moscow and St Petersburg are like day and night but there are some things that you will find true no matter where you go. One is the fact that there are war memorials everywhere to honor the 27 million Russians who died in WWII, its very moving. They both had extensive subway systems (St Petersburg is the deepest in the world). The women look like supermodels, but I never saw one actually eat. Lastly buying tickets or standing in line will take you 3 times as long as anywhere else IN THE WORLD. But thats pretty much where the similarities end....
Our first stop in Mother Russia was to the political metropolis of Moscow. It was like we stepped back in time 30 years, at least from a technological standpoint. They have a wonderful subway...straight from the 1960's. Everything here is a bit archaic, even compared to Thailand. The escaltors run on a switch controled by villianous Olga's BFF. Ever heard of Visa? Not in Moscova. Nor will you find any sign in English or anyone who speaks it. The people here can be a bit cold, try not make eye contact, its less awkward that way. But I must say, once you get past all that, it is quite enjoyable. The Kremlin was very interesting. You have a choice of museums in the Kremlin itself, we did all them. The diamond fund inside the Armory had quite the showcase of Russian jewels. Spectacular. The armory itself is filled with treasures of the Tsars and Russian history. We also went inside the famous St Basil's Cathedral (it needs a little love). The Russians also love themselves some Peter the Great. There is a statue of him twice the height of the Statue of Liberty sitting in the Moscow river. All in all Moscow is a bit what you think: Stoic, Proud, Russian, Very Lenin, and Cold. One last note on Moscow that we missed in our travel book: It will rain.
But its always sunny in Saint Petersburg. St Petersburg is lovely. Romantic. Historic. And maybe you have heard a little museum called the Hermitage. We arrived an hour after it opened and waited in line for 1.5 hours (about the same as the Kremlin). But my oh my. It was just dripping with history and art. For those of you who don't know, there are over 3 million pieces of art in this one museum. But that's not the half of it. The museum itself is Peter I old winter palace. And they don't call it a palace for nothing. Grand staircases, ballrooms, chandeliers....I could live there. My favorite stop in this wonderful city was "The Church of Spilt Blood." Which was erected over the very spot where Alexander II was murdered, hence the name. The entire place was filled with mosiacs, floor to ceiling. is It was more beautiful than is possible to describe. We also stopped by St. Isaac's Cathedral who's dome cover with more than 100kg of gold. A quick jog across the river you will find Peter and Paul's fortress, built to withstand the Swedish (not quite the superpower they once were, eh?). There was another cathedral inside there (surprise) where the last royal family of Russia is buried alongside Peter the Great. A nice little beach also runs along one side with a lovely view of old town. I wish we had more time here as it is much more tourism friendly (look a sign in English!) as well as warm and welcoming.
I know have left out a lot of experiences and places but sometimes there is so much that there is just not enough space on a page. Its like that in Russia.
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